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    Poured Concrete Foundations

    Leaking Tie Rod Holes in Toronto & the GTA

    A small round wet spot partway up a poured wall is almost never a crack. It is a form-tie hole — and it is sealed differently.

    Quick Answer

    What is a tie rod hole and why is it leaking? When a poured concrete foundation is formed, steel ties span the gap between the two form walls to hold them at the correct thickness. After the forms come off, the tie ends are snapped away and the steel remnant stays buried in the wall. Each tie leaves two holes — one on each face — and on the inside face that hole is typically a cone-shaped recess about 25 mm wide by 37 mm deep. Builders plug the mouth of that recess with mortar. Decades later, water finds the gap between the concrete and the steel remnant behind the plug, and appears as a coin-sized wet spot mid-wall with a narrow streak running down to the floor.

    Sealed by polyurethane injection into the void itself — not patched over the surface. Typically from $150 per hole, with volume pricing on multiples.

    Point, Line, or Puddle — Telling Them Apart

    The shape of the water tells you what you are looking at, before anyone opens a wall.

    A point leaks like a tie hole

    Water starts at one discrete spot partway up the wall, with a narrow streak below it and dry concrete above and beside it. Often there is a rust-brown stain under the opening, and often the same thing repeats on a regular grid across the wall.

    A line leaks like a crack

    Water tracks along a continuous line — usually vertical or diagonal, frequently running from a window corner or full height. That is a foundation crack, and it is injected along its whole length.

    A puddle with a dry wall is the cove joint

    Water pooling where the wall meets the floor with no wet streak above it is under-slab pressure at the wall–floor seam. Injection will not fix that one, and we will tell you so rather than sell you a repair that cannot work.

    The regular, repeating pattern is the strongest single clue. Cracks do not arrive in a grid; form ties do.

    What Is Actually Inside the Wall

    Poured foundation walls are built between two form faces held apart by steel ties. Snap ties — the light-forming type used in almost all residential work — carry a plastic cone at each end that sets the wall thickness and holds the form off the concrete. When the forms are stripped, the cone is twisted off and the tie is snapped at a deliberate weak point, the breakback, set about 25 mm (1 in.) behind the face on a standard tie. Flat-bar ties break back much shallower — roughly 6 mm (¼ in.).

    Two things follow from that, and neither appears on any competitor page we could find:

    • The steel does not come out. On a snap tie the remnant stays permanently embedded in the concrete. Only the ends leave.
    • Every tie makes two holes. One on the exterior face, one on the interior. You only ever see half of them. Forming-industry labour estimates count it exactly this way — 12,500 ties on a job means 25,000 tie holes to patch.

    The interior hole left by a cone snap tie is a recess roughly 25 mm across and 37 mm deep. Behind the bottom of that recess sits the snapped end of the steel tie. That geometry is the whole story of why these leak.

    Why the Builder’s Plug Eventually Lets Go

    Three things work against that plug over thirty years.

    1. The concrete–steel interface is itself a path

    A structural engineer who has examined roughly 400 residential foundations puts it bluntly: water will almost always find its way through the interface between the concrete and whatever form-tie material was used. The wall is not monolithic at that point — there is a boundary, and boundaries leak.

    2. A surface plug caps the mouth, not the void

    This is the part homeowners find surprising. Mortar troweled into the face of a 37 mm-deep cone bridges the opening. It does not necessarily fill the annulus around the tie remnant behind it. Manufacturer repair procedures implicitly agree — Xypex’s published method insists the void first be chipped out to a clean, straight-sided U shape roughly 25 mm by 37 mm before anything is packed into it, and specifically rules out a V-shaped void. This mechanism is our reading of field evidence and manufacturer procedure rather than a published standard, and we would rather say so than overstate it.

    3. The remnant corrodes

    Corrosion products occupy several times the volume of the steel they replace — the US Federal Highway Administration puts ferric oxide at roughly three times. That is what produces the rust-brown stain below a leaking hole, and it is why the gap tends to widen rather than heal. On residential foundation walls this is normally a water and cosmetic problem, not a structural one; engineers generally regard an embedded tie remnant in ordinary concrete as benign. We are not going to tell you your house is falling down because a tie is rusting.

    The Code Gap Nobody Mentions

    Two different standards govern how deep a tie has to be buried, and houses get the lenient one.

    Document Applies to What it requires of form ties
    ACI 301 — Specifications for Structural Concrete Structural concrete Embedded tie must terminate at least two tie diameters behind the face, and in no case less than 19 mm (¾ in.)
    Ontario Building Code 9.15.6.3 — Form Ties Part 9 housing “All form ties shall be removed at least flush with the concrete surface.”
    Ontario Building Code 9.13.2.4(2) — Preparation of Surface Part 9 housing Holes from form-tie removal to be “sealed with cement mortar or dampproofing material” before dampproofing

    To be fair about it: a flat tie breaking back 6 mm satisfies the OBC, and ACI 301 is not invoked for Part 9 houses. Nobody has broken a rule. But the Code assumes those holes get sealed from the outside, at construction, before the dampproofing goes on. It says nothing about a hole that starts leaking from the inside twenty-five years later — which is the situation you are actually in.

    Article numbers above are quoted from the 2012 OBC with amendments. Part 9 was renumbered in the 2024 edition; the wording is materially unchanged but the numbering may differ.

    How We Seal It

    Polyurethane injection into the void — the same chemistry we use for wet crack injection.

    1. Confirm it is the hole

    We trace the water to its entry point. A point source with dry wall above it is a tie hole; a line is a crack; a wet wall–floor seam is something injection cannot fix. If it is not a tie hole we say so.

    2. Open the void

    Any failed mortar plug or old patching compound comes out. Resin will not bond through it, and leaving it in place is the most common reason a second repair fails too.

    3. Inject to refusal

    A port is set and hydrophobic polyurethane is injected until the void takes no more. The resin reacts with the water already present, expands through the annulus around the tie remnant, and cures as a closed-cell seal wrapping the steel.

    4. Finish and warranty

    Port removed, face made good, and the repair carries our transferable lifetime warranty.

    Why polyurethane and not epoxy here

    Epoxy is a structural adhesive. It is the right answer for a dry structural crack and the wrong one here, for two reasons. It wants a dry, stable substrate, and a leaking tie hole is neither. And ACI’s field guide to epoxy injection (RAP Bulletin 1) is explicit that cracks caused by corroding steel should not be repaired by epoxy injection, because the corrosion continues and new cracking follows. That guidance is written about reinforcing steel and cracks rather than form ties, so we will not overstate it — but the logic transfers exactly: the corroding steel is the reason the hole is leaking, and epoxy does not address it.

    Hydrophobic polyurethane cures because water is present, then holds constant volume — it does not swell and shrink with wet and dry cycles, and it tolerates freeze–thaw. In a wet, irregular void with a steel remnant in it, that is the behaviour you want.

    Straight about the evidence: there is no ACI or ICRI document that specifically endorses polyurethane injection for form-tie holes. We use it on engineering rationale and field results, not on a citation, and you should be sceptical of anyone who claims otherwise.

    What It Costs in the GTA

    Per hole, with volume pricing — because they rarely come alone.

    Situation Typical range Notes
    Single leaking tie hole $150 – $350 One visit, one port, an hour or two on site
    Two to four holes $120 – $175 each Most common scenario — one wall, one row
    Five or more from $100 each Usually one form lift that was poured wet
    Tie holes plus a cracked wall See crack injection pricing Cracks are priced separately, per crack

    These are GTA market ranges, consistent with prices published openly by Oakville, Aurora and Vaughan contractors. Your written quote is fixed before work starts — we do not price these by the hour, and you should not accept an hourly quote for them either. Run the numbers yourself on our cost calculator.

    How Many Holes Does a House Have?

    More than people expect, and we would rather show the arithmetic than quote a number we cannot source. Manufacturer forming tables put ties on roughly a 300–600 mm vertical by 600 mm horizontal grid, depending on the system and how fast the wall was poured. Older job-built forms used heavier through-rods on a sparser pattern — often two rows, roughly at knee height and shoulder height.

    Forming pattern Interior holes per linear foot of wall
    Modern panel forming, tight grid ~4
    Modern panel forming, 600 × 600 mm ~2
    Older two-row through-rod pattern ~1.3

    On a typical 150–200 ft perimeter that is anywhere from a couple of hundred to several hundred interior tie holes. Almost none of them will ever leak. The ones that do are usually the ones below the water table on the wet side of the house, or in a lift that was poured in bad conditions. Nobody needs every hole injected, and anyone quoting you for all of them is not diagnosing.

    Estimates derived from published manufacturer spacing tables. We could not find an authoritative figure for holes per house, so we have shown the method rather than inventing one.

    Tie Rod Hole FAQ

    Do I have tie rod holes, or is my foundation something else?
    Tie holes are a poured concrete problem, full stop. If your foundation is concrete block, stone, brick or ICF, you do not have them — a block wall fails along its mortar joints instead, and stone walls leak through the joints and the parge. Look for small round recesses in a repeating pattern across a smooth grey wall. That is poured concrete with form ties.
    Is the metal tie still inside my foundation wall?
    Yes. On a snap tie the steel remnant is permanently embedded — only the ends were removed when the forms came off. It sits roughly 25 mm behind the face on a standard tie, or as little as 6 mm on a flat-bar tie. That buried remnant is the thing water is travelling along.
    What is the rusty brown stain running down the wall under the hole?
    Corrosion of the tie remnant. Rust occupies roughly three times the volume of the steel it replaces, so as the remnant corrodes it opens the gap around itself and pushes iron oxide out through the plug. The stain is a reliable tell that the leak has been going for a while, not just since the last storm.
    Can I just fill it with hydraulic cement from the hardware store?
    You can, and it often holds for a season or two. The problem is not that hydraulic cement is a bad material — it is a good one, and it sets under water. The problem is that troweling it into the face plugs the mouth of a 37 mm-deep recess without filling the void around the tie behind it. Water keeps arriving; it just takes a slightly longer route. Worse, a failed patch has to be chipped out before anything can be injected, so the DIY attempt adds to the eventual bill.
    Why did the plug the builder put in fail after twenty-five years?
    It probably never filled the void — it capped it. Add corrosion of the remnant behind it, seasonal freeze–thaw, and rising groundwater on one side of the house, and the boundary between the plug and the concrete opens up. The Building Code only ever asked for those holes to be sealed from the outside before dampproofing. Nothing was done wrong; it simply was not built to be permanent from the inside.
    If one tie hole is leaking, will the rest start leaking too?
    Not usually, and this is where we differ from a lot of quotes you will get. The holes that leak are the ones facing hydrostatic pressure — typically low on the wall, on the wet side of the house, or in a single lift that was poured in poor conditions. The other few hundred holes in your foundation are dry and will stay dry. We inject the ones that are wet.
    Do you have to dig up the outside to fix a tie hole?
    No. Injection is done from inside, in a couple of hours, with no excavation and no landscaping to put back. Excavation only enters the conversation when tie-hole leakage is one symptom among many that the exterior dampproofing has failed across a whole wall — and that is a different diagnosis, which we would show you rather than assert.
    Is a leaking tie rod hole a structural problem?
    Almost never. It is a water path. Engineers generally treat an embedded tie remnant in ordinary residential concrete as a durability and cosmetic matter rather than a structural one — concrete is a good rust-inhibiting environment, and the remnant is small. If a wall is bowing, cracking horizontally, or shifting, that is a separate and more serious finding, and a tie hole is not the cause of it.
    How long does the repair take, and can I use the room after?
    Most single-hole repairs are one to three hours on site including prep and cure. There is a resin odour during injection that clears with ventilation within a few hours. You can normally use the space the same day.
    Does the repair come with a warranty?
    Yes — a transferable lifetime warranty on the injection, which moves with the house if you sell. Given that a documented, warrantied repair is an asset at closing rather than a disclosure problem, keep the paperwork.

    What Customers Say — 5.0 on Google

    Real, verifiable Google reviews of Concrete Crack Repair Pros. Nothing paraphrased, nothing borrowed from a sister company.

    5.0
    ★★★★★

    6 Google reviews · Concrete Crack Repair Pros

    Verified on our Google Business Profile at 64 Millwick Dr, North York — read every review on Google.

    ★★★★★

    “Highly recommend for polyurethane crack injections. They also mentioned epoxy crack repair for floor cracks that worked really well.”

    Giles McMahon · Google review, August 2026

    ★★★★★

    “Highly recommend this company. John came out and assessed my issues. Repaired my foundation by making sure the cracks do not leak anymore.”

    Kiera · Google review, August 2026

    ★★★★★

    “I got the crack injection service. My basement foundation was leaking and these injections sealed things up.”

    Trina · Google review, August 2026

    ★★★★★

    “Great service. They came out and fixed the cracks in my foundation right away. Thank you”

    Randy · Google review, August 2026

    ★★★★★

    “Great job filling the cracks in my concrete foundation”

    Rapp · Google review, August 2026

    ★★★★★

    “Highly recommend this Team for foundation crack repairs. I hope to not need these guys again, but if I do, I won’t call any one else.”

    Joel Williams · Google review, July 2026

    BusinessConcrete Crack Repair Pros — concrete contractor specialising in foundation crack injection
    Address64 Millwick Dr, North York, ON M9L 1Y3
    HoursOpen 24 hours, seven days — including active-leak emergency calls
    Service areaToronto and the GTA — see all service areas

    Keep Reading

    Polyurethane crack injection

    The same resin and the same principle, applied along a crack instead of into a void.

    Epoxy crack injection

    When a structural bond is the right answer — and when it is not.

    Foundation cracks explained

    Horizontal, vertical, diagonal, stair-step: what each pattern means.

    Why crack injections fail

    Including the one that matters here — injecting over an old patch.

    What crack repair costs

    Per-crack pricing and a calculator that gives you a range in 30 seconds.

    Foundation crack repair

    The full service, across Toronto and the GTA.

    The Homework, If You Want It

    Every technical claim above traces to one of these.

    Round wet spot on a poured wall?

    Send us a photo and we will tell you whether it is a tie hole, a crack, or something injection will not fix. Free written assessment, fixed price before any work starts.

    FOR A FREE ON-SITE ESTIMATE, CONTACT US TODAY