Home › Guides & Resources › Concrete Crack Repair Materials
Polyurethane, epoxy, hydraulic cement or caulk — a plain guide to which concrete crack repair material actually fixes your crack, and which ones fail.
Written by the Concrete Crack Repair Pros field team · Reviewed by our senior injection technicians · Published and last reviewed: November 9, 2026
The right concrete crack repair material depends entirely on the crack: polyurethane resin for an active or moving leak, epoxy resin for a dry crack that needs structural strength, hydraulic cement for a gushing hole or tie-rod pocket, and flexible polyurethane caulk only for cosmetic hairlines that do not leak. Hardware-store kits bundle these same chemistries in smaller quantities — they can work on a simple dry crack, but on a leaking or moving crack the wrong material is the usual reason a repair fails within a season. This guide matches each material to the crack it actually fixes, with honest notes on where each one fails.
Match the material to the crack, not to the shelf.
Almost every legitimate concrete crack repair comes down to four materials. Polyurethane resin is a flexible, water-activated material injected into a crack where it foams and seals — the right choice for a crack that is leaking or still moves with the seasons, because it keeps sealing as the crack breathes. Epoxy resin is a rigid structural adhesive that bonds the two faces of a dry, stable crack back together and restores the wall’s strength. Hydraulic cement is a fast-setting patching compound that cures even underwater, which makes it right for plugging tie-rod holes and gushing gaps but wrong as the permanent answer to a structural crack. Polyurethane caulk and surface sealers are flexible cosmetic fillers for hairlines that do not leak. Everything sold for crack repair is a version of one of these four.
The honest limits most product labels leave off.
| Material | Best for | Where it fails |
|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane resin (injection) | Active leaks, moving or seasonal cracks | Not structural — will not add strength to a load-bearing crack |
| Epoxy resin (injection) | Dry, stable cracks needing structural strength | Cracks again beside the repair if the crack still moves |
| Hydraulic cement | Tie-rod holes, gushing holes, fast plugs | Rigid and shallow — re-cracks on a moving or structural crack |
| Polyurethane caulk / sealer | Cosmetic non-leaking hairlines | Surface-only; fails on anything that leaks or moves |
Choosing between these is the part a product label cannot do for you, because it depends on how the crack behaves, not just how it looks.
Sika, Dricore and the rest — honestly assessed.
Retail injection kits package the same polyurethane or epoxy a professional uses, just in small single-crack volumes with a manual applicator. On one simple, dry, accessible crack, a good kit can hold. The trouble is everything the kit cannot do: it cannot judge whether your crack needs flexible polyurethane or rigid epoxy, it cannot generate consistent full-depth pressure by hand, and it carries no warranty. The common result on a leaking or moving crack is a repair that re-opens within a season or two — at which point the professional repair gets done anyway, now on top of the cost of the kit and any water damage in between. A kit is a reasonable gamble on a minor dry crack; it is a false economy on a crack that is wet, moving, or near anything finished.
Our published rates, by material.
We carry all four materials and choose by what the crack is doing. A polyurethane injection runs $750–$1,000 per crack and an epoxy injection $850–$1,500, each in a single visit and each backed by a transferable lifetime warranty. Tie-rod and snap-tie holes, where hydraulic cement or resin is appropriate, are $75–$150 each. Every additional crack repaired on the same visit is 5% off. The assessment is free, and if your crack genuinely only needs a tube of caulk, we will tell you that rather than sell you an injection you do not need.
Live Google reviews for Concrete Crack Repair Pros, pulled straight from our own Google Business Profile. Nothing on this page is written by us, and nothing is borrowed from a sister company.
Where these claims come from, and where to go deeper.
Pricing and discount figures on this page are our own published rates, current at the review date above. The DIY benchmark comes from our kit-vs-professional comparison. Resin behaviour reflects manufacturer technical practice for hydrophobic polyurethane and structural injection epoxy as applied by our crews; failure patterns are first-party field observations from repairs across Toronto, the GTA and Southern Ontario.
Free assessment, honest resin choice, full-depth injection — and a lifetime transferable warranty that says so in writing.
Home › Guides & Resources › Basement Crack Injection
A straight answer to how foundation crack injection works, when it is the right repair and when it is not, and what it costs — from the crews who do it every day.
Written by the Concrete Crack Repair Pros field team · Reviewed by our senior injection technicians · Published and last reviewed: November 9, 2026
Basement crack injection is the standard permanent repair for a leaking poured-concrete foundation crack: a technician injects polyurethane or epoxy resin into the crack from inside the basement, filling it through the full thickness of the wall so water can no longer travel through. Done correctly it is a one-visit repair, it needs no excavation, and at our published rates it runs $750–$1,000 for a polyurethane leak-seal and $850–$1,500 for a structural epoxy repair, backed by a transferable lifetime warranty. It is the right fix for an ordinary wall crack — it is not the fix for a leak coming from the floor-wall joint or over the top of the wall, which we will tell you honestly on site.
Full-depth resin, injected from inside, in a single visit.
A technician cleans the crack, bonds a line of plastic injection ports down its length, and seals the surface with a fast-setting paste so the resin cannot escape. Low-pressure resin is then pumped into the lowest port until it travels up and out of the next one, and so on up the wall — which is how we know the crack is filled through its entire thickness, not just skinned over on the inside face. The surface seal and ports are removed or trimmed once the resin has cured. The whole process is done from inside the basement: there is no excavation, no damage to gardens, decks or walkways, and most single cracks are finished in one visit.
The single decision that determines whether the repair holds.
Polyurethane is a flexible, water-activated resin that foams and expands on contact with moisture. It is the right choice for a crack that is actively leaking or that still moves slightly with the seasons, because it stays flexible and keeps sealing as the crack breathes. Epoxy is a rigid structural adhesive that effectively welds the two faces of the crack back together and restores the wall’s strength — the right choice for a dry, stable crack where structure, not just water, is the concern. Using epoxy on a moving crack is the classic mistake: the rigid resin holds but the concrete simply cracks again beside it. Matching resin to crack behaviour is the part a homeowner kit cannot judge and an experienced crew can.
| Resin | Best for | Our price per crack |
|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane | Active leaks, moving or seasonal cracks | $750–$1,000 |
| Epoxy | Dry, stable cracks needing structural strength | $850–$1,500 |
| Tie-rod / snap-tie holes | Small round leaks in poured walls | $75–$150 each |
Every additional crack on the same visit is 5% off, and every repair carries a transferable lifetime warranty.
The honest part most companies leave out.
Injection seals a crack through a wall. It cannot seal water that is not coming through a crack. If your basement is taking on water at the joint where the floor meets the wall (the cove joint), over the top of the foundation, or up through the slab, injection will not stop it — and anyone who injects a wall crack to “fix” a cove-joint leak has sold you a repair that was never going to work. Those problems need interior drainage or exterior solutions instead. Similarly, a wall that is bowing or has a horizontal crack from soil pressure is a structural question for an engineer before it is a sealing question. On a free assessment we tell you which of these you actually have, even when the answer is that you do not need us.
Real numbers, including the re-repair trap.
A professional polyurethane injection runs $750–$1,000 per crack and an epoxy repair $850–$1,500, each with a transferable lifetime warranty and done in one visit. A hardware-store injection kit runs roughly $40–$120, which looks cheaper until you account for what the kit cannot do: judge the resin, reach full depth under proper pressure, or carry a warranty. The common outcome is a crack that re-leaks within a season or two, at which point you pay for the professional repair anyway — now on top of the kit and the water damage in between. For a single straightforward crack a kit can hold; for a crack that is leaking, moving, or near anything finished, the professional repair is usually the cheaper number over any real time horizon.
Live Google reviews for Concrete Crack Repair Pros, pulled straight from our own Google Business Profile. Nothing on this page is written by us, and nothing is borrowed from a sister company.
Where these claims come from, and where to go deeper.
Pricing and discount figures on this page are our own published rates, current at the review date above. The DIY benchmark comes from our kit-vs-professional comparison. Resin behaviour reflects manufacturer technical practice for hydrophobic polyurethane and structural injection epoxy as applied by our crews; failure patterns are first-party field observations from repairs across Toronto, the GTA and Southern Ontario.
Free assessment, honest resin choice, full-depth injection — and a lifetime transferable warranty that says so in writing.
